The Last Twenty Years

Ecky Limon and
James "Tiger feet" Cookson

In the Spring of 1990 James Sawrey-Cookson placed his size nines firmly in the door of this old converted Victorian shoe factory. His sole purpose was to provide a warm, relaxed environment in which to enjoy a glass or two of wine with a decent plate of food. He was aided in this enterprise by the mercurial talents of Francois Labesse, as fiery as a Corsican street-fighter with a natural flair for simple French cuisine. His pot and pan hurling tendencies often had waiting staff quaking in their boots! Some more long-standing patrons may remember his very popular “Fish quenelles au gratin” and the timeless classic “sautéed garlic prawns”.

A few years later Ecky Limon joined the dance and James was able to pass on some of his more sophisticated moves!

Singa-longa Rob and Ecky with young Jake on backing vocals

Ecky’s arrival heralded a new regular live music fixture, as with his harmonious partner-in-rhyme Robert Ebbage he provided many a memorable Monday night of foot-tapping and general caterwauling. The young Barman Jake Barnett who was to go on and seek fortune as a wine-maker in New Zealand was a particular fan.

Contented customers served by James "Springsteen"

The Last’s popularity soon began to grow as it began to develop a great reputation based on its simple, honest food, its esoteric wine-list and its friendly, informal atmosphere. Regular faces would return again and again to The Last as to a pair of warm, comfy slippers!

Ramsey compliments James on his "Del Amitri" sideburns

The Last was soon to experience its next evolutionary shift, as a customer led momentum saw it change from a wine bar which did a great plate of food to a restaurant with a cracking wine list.

A rise in stature and a more serious approach to food saw James and Ecky begin to move in heady circles!

James Preston, Mustapha Fassih, Dory Masri, and Tom Reeves do "Kitchen Confidential"

The Autumn of 1998 saw the arrival of Mustapha Fassih - his Moroccan influences bringing a particular style to the Last’s menu. Notable favourites were his “Prawns in Kateifi pastry with chilli jam”, the ever-popular “braised lamb shank with mustard mash and red wine and rosemary jus”, and of course the spectacular “Vanilla cheesecake with caramel sauce” The team which was to grow under Mustapha’s tutelage was soon to become a strong, dynamic brigade of talented, ambitious young chefs.
 
In late 2005 Mustapha Fassih took the last train for the coast and stepped off at sunny Sheringham, opening his own restaurant, “No 10”. Dory Masri stepped up to the plate ready to fill his former Head Chef’s Big Boots!

Dory was able to continue Mustapha’s popular style whilst expressing his own ideas with inventive enthusiasm. His “Smoked salmon with onion bhajii and beetroot crème fraiche” was particularly inspired and a big hit with both customers and employers! He also managed quite skillfully to take most of the credit for Mustapha’s now legendary cheesecake. Dory’s desire for his own place has led him back to his home town in Lebanon where, inspired by his success at The Last, he is opening his own restaurant, catering for the well-heeled, good people of Beirut. We wish him all the best.

Emily, Jenna, Joni and Emma celebrate good times

In recent years the strength and depth of talent in the kitchen has been thankfully echoed by our wonderful front of house staff, led for some time by the irrepressible force of nature Emma Medeiros who, like Jake all those years ago, has flown off for new adventures to the land of Cloudy Bay.

This was to signal the welcome return of the great Emma Swatman as leader of the gang. The ever-popular “Swattie” has the spirit of The Last Wine Bar coursing through her veins, and the giggling to be heard around the tables during service is usually down to her fairly unique banter!

A certain Last Wine Bar “style” of service has evolved throughout the years, friendly, informal but always professional. This has been instigated, developed and then perpetuated by some great characters of past and present.

Carol "I am smoking a fag!" Jones with the lovely Stella

Let us not forget the following for their fine contributions:

Julie Derges: the lovely Julie, everyone’s favourite. Charm, grace and friendliness personified.
Nick Parker: as quick witted as a fox with a degree in quick-wittedness and an unsurpassable Barman.
Carol Jones: deceptively efficient despite the appearance of working in slow-motion!

"Sacré Bleu!" Michel

Duncan Fraser: an all-round talent who proved himself both front of house and in the kitchen, the term “cheeky Monkey” was invented for him!

Michel Bernouis: the lovable Frenchman who could start an argument with the fridge if it happened to mention Agincourt!

Mike Fitzgerald: will always be remembered if only for his “memorable” jokes at Christmas parties

Mark Stanton: A bold, full bodied Australian number with a certain cheeky fruitiness.

Olly Barker: The charming, all round talents of young Olly are now on display at The Playhouse Bar

A host of memorable characters have trudged the creaky floors of The Last echoing the footsteps of the old cobblers of days gone by. To those leaving footprints in fields far and wide, we wish you all the best.

Lasting memories and lasting impressions. We look forward to those who will in turn step up and make history at The Last. In the meantime, from all the girls! (the boys sadly misrepresented in this case)

Happy 20 years at Last!

From left to right (Back Row) Emma, Beatrice, Gaby, Jenna, Joni, Claire,
Kate. (Front row) Ana, Rachel, Pippa, Rad